Climbing adventures in BC - day 3 of 10, I hate friction climbing

After much rest, Megan seemed to feel better. Not 100% yet, but good enough that she wanted to climb something. And the weather also seemed to be better, at least it wasn't drizzling anymore, and sometimes you can see blue skies. So after breakfast in Squamish (Sunflower Bakery was unfortunately closed on Sundays, we settled for the cafe down the street), we decided to check out Upper Malamute - an area with great scenery and good concentrating of routes, according to the guidebook. There were two approaches: a short one and a long one. We somehow couldn't find the short approach even though it was right under our nose, and took the long approach. The view on the Upper Malamute was great, it sits right above Howe Sound, with unobstructed view to the water.

View from Upper Malamute

Megan instantly set her eyes on a 5.10a slab called Pacing the Cage.

Megan: "Oh that looks like fun. Can we climb this first?"

Me: *whines* "I'm not good at friction climbing. Can't we toprope something easier first? I can't lead that."

Megan: "Fine, I'll lead it then."

Me: "Fine, you lead it then."

So Megan set up to lead Pacing the Cage, and delicately smeared up the slab with non-existing holds. This kind of climbing is actually good for her because it doesn't hurt her injured finger tendons. She was soon as the anchor and asked whether I want to lead it or toprope it. "Ummmm... let me just toprope it first." I put on my shoes, moved up a few steps, and was stuck. The crux on this route came right at the beginning when you have to smear up a steep bowl in the slab. Even on a toprope, I couldn't do the moves. I tried going left, tried going right, but just never felt I had a secure foot placement. After stuck there for a long time muttering how much I hate friction climbing, I eventually pinched the bolt hanger between my fingers as a handhold to help my progress, and even then the moves were really hard. I made it to the second bolt and grabbed the draw (well I already pinched a bolt hanger, so why not?) to lean back and rest my burning calves. The rest of the climb eased out some, but the whole route left me totally deflated.


Shaking like a leaf on Pacing the Cage

Now it was my turn to pick something to lead. Forget about this friction slab business, I want something with some features so I can hold on to. I want something easy so I can get an ego boost. Looking through the guidebook, I picked a route called Jacob's Other Ladder (5.8). I mean, come on, it's a ladder, how hard can it be? So we rappelled down to the base of the route, and I racked up to lead it. Ten minutes later I was still on the ground. This was another climb in which the crux comes at the beginning. I was totally shut down by the beginning moves. Worst was the fact that the only pro I could get at the beginning was a green alien I could place from the ground, then there was no other pro (and you probably couldn't get a hand free to place any) until you pulled after the crux. Feeling even more deflated, I was ready to call it quits, when Megan suggested I try to use a tree stump to by pass the beginning crux moves. So I did, after a few hesitant tries, and the rest of the climb was way easier than the crux move. But it was quite runout. The ladder (a dyke) did not offer much oppertunity for gear, there were two face bolts on this route, after clipping the second bolt, there was no gear placement to be found (save for maybe a medium cam just a few feet above the seond bolt) until the anchor. The moves were easy, but after I clipped the anchor, I looked down to the second bolt... if I fall right at the anchor, I may very well end up back on the ground again. Runout, I tell you.


Runout on Jacob's Other Ladder (5.8). Megan was standing at the last pro before the anchor

Getting thoroughly beaten on two climbs, I didn't feel like trying anything harder. Megan lead another friction slab - Ya Gonna Do Something or Just Stand There and Bleed? (5.10a) which I didn't feel like toproping, seeing how even she had some difficulties on that climb. So it was my turn to lead again, I was eyeing this 5.8+ route called High Mountain Woody, which the guidebook gave a 5-star and raved about, "Must do classic!" However when we got there, another party was already on it, with their leader bringing up two or three people still below. Their leader recommended another route nearby - Stefanie's Tears, which was two pitches, 5.9 and 5.8. I decided to lead the second, 5.8 pitch. The pitch followed a short corner crack, more vertical than most climbs at Upper Malamute, and it was very good. The lower part had some big foot holds allowing good rests, but soon the corner became smooth, and it was a strenuous layback all the way to the top. I soon started to get pumped from the layback - probably because I was placing my feet too high and making it hard on myself. Placing gear became difficult for the pump factor, half way up the route I was feeling a bit shaky. But to my right was a short squeeze chimney, since I always try to find the path of least resistance, I stemmed out to the right, sidepulled on the chimney, got myself over to the right and wedged myself in the chimney to depump, much to Megan's dismay, "What are you doing?! You're definitely off route!" I say "pffft!" to that, if I can reach it on lead, then it is fair game.


De-pumping from the layback on Stefanie's Tears P2

After 5 minutes of de-pumping, I placed another piece in the crack while stemming from the squeeze chimney, and I was on my way again, made it to the top without TOO much excitement (the exit moves to the anchor was slightly harder than it appeared, took me a little off guard). I brought Megan up, she made short work of the layback, but agreed that it was a bit strenuous and hard to place gear. It was an excellent climb, I enjoyed it. So we ended the day on a high note, went back to the campground and cooked Udon noodles with pork for dinner.